Harmattan Christmas with Pawpaw

December in Ghana, with the dry season in tow, family from across the diaspora visiting home to celebrate Christmas, the pop up bars, eateries and shops to accommodate the throng of people, the general excitement of the children, the work overload of Tailors and Seamstresses to finish their handiwork, the well fed Chicken running to pick at the maize thrown it's way (oblivious to the fate that awaits it on Christmas day) is a unique experience.          

Christmas as a child in Ghana meant something new, loads of fuss from visiting Uncles and Aunties, who secretly hand you some money for a treat or two, new clothing, shoes and as a girl a new hairstyle (where the natural hair is chemically straightened, a hot comb passed through the hair or braided and held tightly, (where the foreheads are on full display). 

Painting by Kofi Agorsor, one of the finest artist in Ghana

The best part of Christmas for children is the game 'Try your luck'. The game is a board full of different sizes of balloons , you pay, guess a number and hope it's for a bigger balloon. This ignites a competitive streak in the kids as they always wish to win the bigger balloons. 

My memory of visiting 'Makola' (central market) in the centre of 'Accra' (capital of Ghana) during December was that of a busy scene with people bargaining, negotiating , sweating, the 'mate' (bus conductor) for the 'Trotro' (local public bus) screaming 'Circle, Circle' and passengers hurriedly joining the bus, as it's stopped right in the middle of traffic, the vast amount of different Christmas decorations that glitter as they catch the sun, occasional stench from the open gutters added to heightened sense of excitement in the air. 

A walk through the market on a rather hot afternoon with the market ladies shouting 'Awula (lady) have a look at my wares', the architectural assembly of tomatoes, (I'm always tempted to shake them) the wide beamed hats of the ladies (shading themselves from the hot weather), the beads of sweat running down their faces and the display of fresh produce for the buying public is intoxicating. The sight of the Coconut seller pushing his track and stopping as several people call for his attention 'Kube Wra' and a glance of the 'Asaana' seller serving a quench busting portion of her drink in Calabash with ice cubes, gives one a difficult choice to make. 

On Christmas morning (almost 80% of Ghanaians are christians) you'll find  both men and women in the most colourful outfit made out of African prints or Kente ( a handwoven Ghanaian cloth) all heading to church. 

Church on Christmas day is one filled with excitement, a charged atmosphere of hymns and everyone wishing each other a merry Christmas. 

The other trend in Ghana was the 'Xmas Box' which most businesses had and one was encouraged to leave money in the box as a form of a Christmas token. 

After lunch most families head off home to enjoy their special meal, which could be Fried Chicken with Jollof rice, Ghanaian rich Salad, Fufu (made out of Plantain and Cassava) light soup, peanut butter soup or Palm nut soup (usually cooked with Chicken, Goat meat, Beef or fish)

In the evening most familes and friends visit each other and they are plied with more food. An authentic Christmas in Ghana always has Picadilly biscuits and Danish cookies involved. 

Christmas presents wasn't a requirement in Ghana, (however i stand corrected if things have changed) one was encouraged to exchange food and donate to the needy. 

Remember the essence of Christmas, help a needy family, be grateful and don't forget to laugh. Merry Christmas! 

Thanks to Ohema Adjoa for the Picadilly biscuit picture. All other pictures are from the author of this blog. 

A December to Barbados

After 9 hrs we arrived in Barbados and we were ushered to our hired vehicle for the  next 8 days of bliss. My husband and I made this trip in 2012 and vowed to return. Our favourite place to stay is Little Good Harbour' a self catering boutique hotel. We hired the beach front cottage with it's own garden, outside barbecue station and a well equipped kitchen (ideal necessities for a chef on holiday)

 The cottage is breathtaking with 3 huge windows (the windows are situated individually in the living room and 2 bedrooms) opening up to the Carribean sea literally on our doorstep. The cottage is our 'Home' for the next 8days. 

 The sound of waves crushing through the rocks, the harmonious loud cricket sounds indicated an evening adventure far from the UK. 

My idea of a great holiday centres around good food, wine and where I can immerse myself in the culture with a sense of friendliness and belonging. Barbados offers a serene,welcoming ambience, picturesque sunset and adventure. Barbados is an island surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean on oneside and the Carribean sea on the other. 

I promised myself not to miss a day of sunshine, the roaring and calming sea with everything else this beautiful island had to offer. I woke up at 4am the next day to sit by the window sill, watch the sea, the sunrise, listen to the chirping birds with Kodjo Antwi's 'Ponkor a bodam', a nostalgic song that resonates with my teenage years in Ghana, playing in the background.

It was during this reflective and meditative mood that I decided to blog about my experience and capture every moment.

By late morning we decided to visit the local fishmongers' for 'the catch of the day' and get some fruits and vegetables for our stay. The fishmonger had on display freshly caught Tuna, Sword fish and Baracuda. We bought a kilo of Tuna costing £15 and watch with awe the skill of the fishmonger carving our portion. One will salivate just looking at this freshly caught soft Tuna and dream of all the dishes one will make. 

Next to the fishmongers was a fresh produce stall with Okra, Sweet potatoes, Mangoes, Avocados, Water Yam, Plantain etc (much to my surprise). Naturally we purchased some of the above ingredients for our meals during the week and hurried back to the cottage to enjoy the sea.

I was particularly excited about the ingredients we purchased, which had my creative juices flowing and my taste buds heightened. For brunch I made, soft boiled eggs with avocado and sprouted beans in a mustard dressing  and fruit salad.

Soft boiled eggs with Bajan oily Avocado and sprouted beans tossed in a mustard dressing.

Fruit salad of Mangoes, Papaya (Pawpaw, how we Ghanaians call it) and banana in a freshly squeezed orange juice. 

After brunch we went swimming (which in my case is paddle in the sea) and relaxed at the beach with a thirst quenching Rum and Coke with a hint of lemon dreaming about lunch. 

Read about lunch and more in the next blog. 

An Italian affair (Trastevere, Rome). Part 1

My love for Italian dishes and subsequent holidays to Italy is my idea of a dream. I love travelling, mainly to immerse myself in the culture and food of various countries.

However in all my travels, Italy ticks all the right boxes for food and culture. 

The enchanting and intoxicating streets of Trastevere has me hooked. The anticipation of finding something unique, creative and breathtaking makes me walk around for hours and hours on end. The excitement of finding obscure Trattoria's, a bakery shop, a fresh pasta making shop, the amazing grocers, vintage cars and the retro clad individuals.

The best part after exploring most of the town, is treating yourself to a chilled glass of Prosecco, Wine or Beer, in a rustic bar, outside ,whilst feasting your eyes on passersby. 

Intrigued by these gentlemen with their dishevelled but equally cool and retro appearance. 

I'm not into cars but I loved this. It reminded me of an old Bedford truck that was used as public transport in my childhood in Ghana. 

One rule I always abide by when I travel, is to eat everything local, as one is guaranteed good and fresh food. I always avoid 'touristy' restaurant and hunt for places the locals visit. With this in mind we came across this place called 'The Fish Market'

 We had to queue for an hour and a half as it operates a first come service. This place does not operate a booking service and I can understand why. Most people visiting this restaurant were a trendy retro bunch.

You select from a variety of fresh fish and seafood by the weight and state how you want them cooked. Alternatively you can select from their standard menu.

You are allowed to get drinks from the bar and wait outside for your turn. However the random service of deep fried Calamari and anchovies, with the accompanied cheers from everyone outside waiting, was a great idea and one I'll never forget.  When next you are in Rome just try them

The amazing Tuna Carpaccio 

Shredded fresh Fennel, Grapefruit , Anchovies and Rocket

Tuna tartar with raspberries and balsamic glaze. 

What I loved about 'The Fish Market', was the creative combination of ingredients, in a simple way, but had a great impact on my taste buds.  A must visit!

Exploring the streets of Trastevere

The perfect Cappuccino and spot to people watch. 

Quenching my thirst from one of the many fountains across Trastevere

A traditional Roman dish made of tripe.

I couldn't resist a bowl of fried fish

Please come back and read about the second part of my secret 'Italian affair'.